Friday, 4 February 2011

Can It!

I've been asked to participate in the Sessions - where beer bloggers all over the world comment on a single topic (I've been so busy I didn't get a chance to check out what it was all about earlier and I wrote a slightly rude intro about no knowing what I was up to, for which I must apologise, I'm going a bit mental this end finishing this damn book!)

So, firstly the below is a very bullet point version of my general opinions (again apologies!) but I hope it gives a general gist of how I feel; I've only had a chance to read Pete Brown's entry so far and I must confess that if I was to write a post entirely on keg vs cask then I'd have written exactly what he has, although maybe not as eruditely, but I've gone a bit wider and hope it all makes sense!

The original American canned craft beer,
Oskar Blues cites the can as a major saving
Glass - always brown, never clear, especially craft brewers; Badger, Greene King & St Austell have all been guilty of bottling good beers because they want to pander to the marketing departments. Why the hell do you let your brewers spend all that money on raw ingredients, utilities and manpower if you're just going to balls up the end result by putting it in a clear bottle.

For any brewery reading this, if profit is your primary concern then let me put why this is bad in terms you'll understand, it's short-sighted in terms of brand equity and longevity, unless you're Corona and you can convince the gullible that sticking lime in the top is a Mexican tradition to keep out flies, not to cover up the fetid stench of light strike as the hop oils degrade into something resembling a damp corgi who's been rolling in a swamp.

Cask vs. keg - different strokes for different folks, I think keg is a very different beast these days and the word no longer represents poor quality products (smoothflow on the other hand is the devil's own work!).

Cans - use the American method, use soda cans, they are a pleasing size to drink beer from, they keep beer super-fresh and it's my new favourite way of enjoying beer when not in a pub environment; I grant you I tend to drink American offerings so I don't get to enjoy them very often but the sooner more breweries follow in BrewDog's paw prints and band together to run a consumer campaign to get them to understand how much better the beer is when packaged this way the better everyone will be.

And why? Well for starters you can get across more information about your beer on cans as you have the whole surface of the container to use, they will save you transport costs as the are lighter and fill space on your transport more efficiently, so you will be able to get more pallets on one truck, they are better for the environment as they are more recyclable than glass and, finally and most importantly, if your product is designed to be served fresh then the can (when lined with a protective membrane like a soda can) will do a better job than any other container of protecting it.*

I know I've said all that before, but it bears repeating and besides, someone asked me to do it (still not sure why but hell, I'm a helpful kinda gal!).

*Caveat is obviously bottle conditioned beer, I can't see how you would be able to do that in can without it exploding, but I'm sure smarter people than I can tell me whether that's the case or not

Thursday, 3 February 2011

A Far Scarier Merger Being Mooted

You've probably already hear that Molson Coors has bought Cornish brewery Sharp's; head brewer Stuart Howe rang to assure me that the specials would continue unhindered and that I might be in danger of seeing him more than twice a year for a beer! All good news for ale lovers everywhere.

I don't think Banksy has anything to worry about...
However, I'd suggest you brace yourself for this news - AB-Inbev is allegedly considering a merger with SAB Miller. Credit Suisse has recommended that the way for the Budweiser owner to battle its current domestic beer market woes in the US is to take on board some SAB's commercial savvy.

Personally I think there's an easier fix - brew better beer. There, that should earn me millions in consultancy fees! Or not...

Anyway, obviously it doesn't only have ramifications for the US market it could create a truly terrifying two-brewer market over here as well.

Let's face it, Carlsberg and Heineken could rapidly lose their volumes solely on the basis that one lager is pretty much like the other to most commodtiy brand drinkers and the new SAB/AB-InBev leviathon would be able to charge a lot less than their rivals 

And more to the point they have few products that engender customer loyalty through a lack of innovation. The 'girly non-beer' from Carlsberg (Eve) seems to have sunk without trace (I presume. No one seems to want to talk to me about it anyway and I've never seen it in a pub) and they are now more of a distribution company than a brand per se.

I'm not aware of any innovation from Heineken in the UK market either, and it does seem pretty intent on buggering up its ale side (which let's remember is the only on trade growth category), I know I'm not alone in believing Deuchars has become a mere shadow of its former self and let's not forget this is the company that moved the brewing of Newcastle Brown Ale to another county!

So, that pretty much leaves you with Molson Coors up against a two-headed giant in the form of a merged SAB & AB-Inbev (which given their giant creativity for their last name change I presume they're just going to call SAB-InBev?).

Molson Coors seems to be the least of any beer lover's worries right now, the company appears to 'get' the craft beer scene, investing in the Worthington brand and tapping into that market in the States and over here with Blue Moon. I also know a couple of the senior brewers who work for Molson Coors in Denver and it would appear they get given quite a lot of latitude to play and experiment and are also well-liked and respected in the industry.

So, why does that two-headed monster of SAB and AB-Inbev worry me?

Well, to be honest, I quite like that AB-Inbev seems to seize every chance to implode its business in the UK (see below) with alacrity. How they've managed to foul up the Stella brand so immensely it utterly beyond me, Beck's which has credibility has taken a back seat and they've ruined draught Bass beyond all recognition, as just a few starting points!

Whereas I consider the guys at SAB Miller to be quite smart as a general rule, measured and fairly immune to knee-jerk reactions.

So, just think what could happen if they got together? AB-InBev could not only own some very powerful brands, they could get some sane leadership in the UK too, which offers a high potential for market dominance.

If nothing else they create a terrifying front of cheap booze in supermarkets, which could easily put another nail in the coffin of borderline pubs. If this does come to pass, I for one will be writing to everyone I can to refer this to the Competition Commission and for it to be knocked back.

How Do You Like Them Apples
Whilst we're on the subject of AB-InBev I can't not comment on their announcement yesterday of a new cider product under the Stella brand.

Seriously, I have no idea what they've been smoking over in Luton but the utter lunacy of their product launches in the last three years alone is truly flabbergasting! They have actually managed to take any form of brand equity Stella had and, frankly, p*ss it up the wall.

The Stella family - that included Eiken, Bock & Peeterman's - sank without trace before even being given six months on the shelves I believe (could be wrong but they didn't exactly get much of a run) and then just last year there was Stella Black, which I finally had the horror of trying before Christmas, and it was fittingly like drinking sprout water - rancid! When I was trying to be so positive that it might actually taste nice in my previous post about it too...

And it never ceased to amaze me that despite proudly touting that it was matured for twice as long, they were never willing to reveal how long maturation was - let alone the whole debacle of calling a blonde lager black - I presume their PR department spent days just banging their heads on the desk in despair.

And, as if that wasn't enough, they've gone and launched a cider - sorry, cidre!

Without a hint of irony the release tells me that it's a Belgian cider, made in Belgium, but solely for the UK market... can you guess what it is yet?

Yep, a completely made up product! For us stupid British who just like shiny packaging! It's not as if we have any cider industry over here already!

Requests to find out what percentage of the drink are pure apple juice have gone unanswered, I presume that this will remain the case for the forseeable future!

If you try it, let me know, I'm not sure I can face doing so...

Friday, 14 January 2011

Sweet Like Chocolate - M&M Porter Goes on Tour!

For those of you who have been patiently waiting for this info, here are the times and venues on Thursday January 20, where Mark, myself and some other Dark Star dudes will be romping around some specialist beer bars in London with our collaboration brew and the very limited oak-aged expressions too!


So, if you want to come and try this smooth as a cashmere codpiece porter and its woody cousins then we will be delighted to see you! We will also be offering some first come first served free thirds via Twitter so follow me @melissacole or @darkstarbrewco for the passwords!


Itinerary:
5-6.30pm - The Rake, 14 Winchester Walk, SE1 9AG
7-8pm - The Euston Tap, 190 Euston Road, NW1 2EF
8.30-9.30pm - Cask Pub & Kitchen, Pimlico, 6 Charlwood Street, SW1V 2EE
9.45pm-CLOSE - The White Horse, 1-3 Parsons Green, SW6 4UL


I look forward to seeing all of you who have expressed such great interest in this latest collaboration and look forward to hearing your comments on the night!

Thursday, 6 January 2011

Pint States: "Reports of My Death Have Been Greatly Exaggerated"

(this is the full article I wrote for Guardian Comment is Free - it was rightly ruthlessly hacked as it wasn't the right tone but I think it works in context of my blog so I put here instead - hate to see writing go to waste!)

It’s the mark of our nation’s attachment to the pint that the recent announcement of a 2/3 of a pint measure has caused quite such a stir, with some fearing we could be kissing goodbye our most beloved drinking vessel.

Please let me reassure you now that, despite reports both here and in some Australian newspapers that it’s last orders for this most-loved of pub institutions, don't panic - just like the Ashes, we’ll be retaining our national pride! This is a new addition to our existing legal measures and nothing more.

But why has the thought of losing our beloved pint created such a stir? Because January’s a quiet news month? Possibly. But it’s probably more to do with the sheer history of it as, for at least 300 years, we have been legally required to drink our beer in this measure and it’s become part of the fabric of our national identitiy.

In 1698 an Act of Parliament declared that ale and beer (the distinction then being that beer used hops and ales didn’t, a now defunct distinction) should only be served in pints, full quarts (two pints) or multiples thereof – so, we were big drinkers even in those days then!

And the 1824 Act, that decreed all food and drink should be served in Imperial measures, further cemented the pint’s place in our hearts, as did the 1988 Weights and Measures (Intoxicating Liquor) Order, which is what we abide by today and which states: “Unless pre-packed in a securely closed container and except when sold as a constituent of a mixture of two or more liquids, beer or cider shall be sold by retail only in a quantity of ⅓ pint, ½ pint or a multiple of ½ pint.”

Also, it’s not just history, it's common parlance and pure habit. We all say, ‘fancy a pint’ even if you are going for a cocktail and, if you’re anything like me, you probably either openly or privately have a preference for a particular beer glass too, and which also carry their own history.

For example, did you know the phrase ‘pint pot’ doesn’t refer to those god-awful dimpled jugs, which are seeing an annoyingly kitsch revival in try-to-hard quasi-cool gastropubs? It, in fact, refers to those made of china, which graced British bars up until the end of WWII and the demise of which was bemoaned by Orwell in the Moon Under Water essay in 1946.

And of course there is the second ugliest drinking vessel ever visited on the public, the Nonik with its bulging gullet, so-named as it was designed to stop the problem of straight sided glasses getting nicks on the from stacking.

I can only hope that designers the world over are putting their caps on for something a bit more aesthetically pleasing for this new-comer, which of course brings us to the point that the Government, and various trade bodies, have been quick to claim that this new measure will not only be good for the pub trade but will get us girlies liking beer more too – which is the opposite to the usual message that we’re all heavy-drinking slattens who fall over the streets and are dying to flash our knickers at the nearest camera.

Annoyingly, although I very much welcome the move personally, I think they might be right and I welcome the measure personally; and not even annoying that it’s true, research and my own experience of holding hundreds of beer tastings agree that lots of women don’t like pints but feel halves are a little too little – it’s just annoying because they will probably follow it up with something asinine like: “It’ll be perfect for those pink, fruit beers that all you girlies love!”

Anyway, before I head off on a rant, I feel it’s rather at odds with the Government’s plans to blanket tax stronger beers in the next Budget as well, because it would seem an eminently more sensible measure for stronger beers that have been a boon to the booming craft brewing industry in the UK, many of which have made their names (not to mention a lot of profit for the Treasury already) by producing the kind of big beers - alongside sensible, sessionable offerings - that people will spend hours in a pub savouring with friends and respecting as artisan products.

The Government’s argument is that anything in the beer sector above 7.4%ABV is a problem drink – but let’s face it, the majority of the beers that are being bought by people who actually care about their beer aren’t a problem and, in all honesty, it’s got little to do with the makers, it’s all to do with the retailers and their pricing policies – but I guess when you keep on putting supermarket chief execs on the honour roll for their generous ‘support’ of your party it’s difficult to do much about it...

The majority of high-strength artisan beers are financially prohibitive to 99.9% of binge or problem drinkers; let’s get real about that shall we? If you’ve got a drinking problem and limited funds what are you going to choose... eight 500ml cans (4litres!) of Frosty Jack White Cider at 7.5%ABV for £5.69 from Bargain Booze or one 750ml bottle of Meantime’s India Pale Ale at the same alcoholic strength for £4.63 from Sainsbury’s?

But, I digress, and there’s an important bit that’s been missed by all and sundry here and that’s the issue that this Order to introduce the 2/3 measure hasn’t yet passed as law; let’s not forget, the previous Government said they too would introduce a 2/3rds measure but ran out of Parliamentary time before the election to ratify it -  but hopefully the prospect of anarchic Scottish producer BrewDog sending another dwarf down to protest its lack of presence on our bars will pester MPs sufficiently to ensure it doesn’t slip down the Parliamentary roster.

But if this measure does become law I’d really like to have just one wish – stop calling it a bloody ‘schooner’! Partly this is because we’ve already taken everything we need from the Aussies in the past year and, secondly, because the pedant in me finds it irritating for no other reason than it isn’t correct.

Schooner is not actually a defined measure under Australian law and varies depending on where you are in the country, for example, I’m reliably informed if you’re in Adelaide the word schooner will procure you a half pint, whereas, it seems, pretty much everywhere else it means ¾s of a pint – neither of which correlate to our potential new measure.

So, I’d like to propose a brain storm, a whole new movement to name this new measure for generations to come – and I’d like to propose the word scoop!

Why you ask? Well, to be honest, because firstly, in a Stephen Fry kind of way, I find the word quite pleasing and, secondly, it brings to mind those fabulously kitsch moments where actors like Errol Flynn, playing some sort of dashing hero in tights, ‘scoops’ his beer out of a righteously stolen barrel and holds it aloft to his band of (soon-to-be) merry men with a resounding ‘huzzah’...

But perhaps that’s just me maybe... what do you, the possibly slightly more sane members of the public, think? 

Thursday, 23 December 2010

Mull This Over Around Christmas!

To get you all into the festive spirit I thought I'd share this recipe I concocted for Market Kitchen - it got rave reviews on set so I thought it would be rude not to! 

I had already used the cider/spirit mix in a previous recipe and just put some orange, cloves and cardamom in the mix but when I came across Nick Strangeway's piece in Jamie magazine with Wass'ail punch with the spiced syrup I shamelessly had to nick the concept - it just works!

As an aside, if I don't get a chance to raise a toast to all you guys before Christmas may I just say sorry things have been a bit sparse in recent months, the book has been pretty all-consuming and I'll be a bit quiet at the beginning of next year too.

HOWEVER, save the date, January 20 in the evening for a special event that I'll be involved in (also don't make a resolution for a dry January either!).

So, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year all and, of course, cheers! xxx

Wass'ail-Inspired Punch
Serves eight cups - don't drive after drinking this!

Liquids:
250ml English cider brandy (recommend Julian Temperley's divine offerings)
250ml sloe gin (recommend Sipsmith if you can get it)
175ml juicing orange juice (not sweet eating oranges)
175ml lemon juice
500ml good quality, strong, dry cider like Aspall Premier Cru

Spicy syrup (concept pinched from cocktail king Nick Strangeway):
1/2 a cinnamon stick
1 lightly cracked cardamom pod
1 star anise
a quick grate of nutmeg
175g vanilla sugar
250ml of water

To Serve:
Berries
Apple chunks
1 clementine studded with five cloves
Lemons
Vanilla sugar

First make the syrup by adding all the ingredients into a non-stick pan and reducing slightly until it coats the back of a spoon, careful not to over-reduce, burn it or get splattered!

Gently warm all the liquids in a large pan, not too much or you'll boil off the booze! Then add the syrup.

Warm your punch bowl with hot water, discard water, dry and then place the fruits & studded clementine in the bottom and pour over your punch.

Serve in handled cups/glasses with a lemon-juice wiped & vanilla sugared rim for a sour/sweet flourish

Monday, 13 December 2010

A Nod in the Wrong Direction

Before I start this article I'd just like to say that a) you should probably read the original article that I'm responding to first and that b) I like Caroline Nodder a lot, I've known her for years and we've shared more than the odd pint together over that time but I find her leader column in last week's Publican somewhat odd.

The gist of it is that, as a consumer, she doesn't want to be consistently bombarded with complete geekery, that she considers beer the stuff that greases the wheels of sociability.

That bit I get, I really do, there are days when I just order a pint, drink it and order another because I've got better things to concentrate on than the delicate earthy aroma of the East Kent Goldings (for example!), but her attack on brewers and beer writers that are innovating is either deliberately provocative or the mark of someone who has  become overly cynical about the industry they work in.

If the beer market hadn't started to successfully communicate beer's fantastic flavour attributes more effectively, using the language of food & wine writers, and celebrity chefs, then it was doomed.

This is because the new beer drinker demographic is the same one that already understands food descriptors and wine words and they don't just speak in the language of Jilly Goolden - who hasn't graced our screens in more years than I care to remember - they speak the language of Tim Atkin, Jancis Robinson, Jonathan Ray, Susy Atkin AND Jamie Oliver and they demand more of their beer descriptors than the lazy and slapdash use of the phrases hoppy & malty (shudder!).

But what really surprises me about Nodder's article is the section where she says:
"But I don’t see anyone out there really working on building a portfolio of strong modern beers, instead I see brewers showing off by tinkering with aged beers or overly strong ABV products, or shock launches a la BrewDog, when they could be building something that can change the very culture of the beer drinker forever."

So, can someone tell me what exactly it is that Dark Star, Thornbridge, Lovibonds, Meantime, Harvey's, Fuller's, Adnams, Sharp's, St Austell, Harviestoun, Marble, Moorhouse's, Otley, Breconshire, Rooster's, Kelham Island, Lancaster and countless others are doing then?

Every single one of those breweries I mention there has a strong, core range of sessionable beers that stand proudly as such on the bar - from London Pride to Hophead and Pint to Pale Rider every single one of these beers is award-winning and, more pertinent to Nodder's argument, profitable, but they are complemented by limited release beers like Brewer's Reserve or a limited release Imperial Stout here and there - which is a sound business model.

Why? Well as Nodder rightly points out, people's interest in all things craft and local is at an all time high so why would a brewery not want to take advantage of that by producing niche products that appeal to a niche audience alongside their wider appeal core range?

And whilst I can understand her frustration at some of the dumb stunts that have been pulled over the past few years by a few misguided brewers - or out-and-out pubicity junkies - you only have to look at the success of every single stage of the summer's Thornbridge meet the brewer tour, nearly every event BrewDog runs, Cask in Pimlico's constant draw of punters every time it does a brewery event, the White Horse's beer festivals (like the Old Ale one just past which had a record year) and even my humble lovebeer@borough business over the last few years to see that the special edition beers are the ones with draw for a growing audience.

And what's wrong with that? Uncovering hidden gems is awesome, it's something to share with your friends, it's an excuse to meet up and try what you've found or even Tweet about it for the world to see.

What Nodder has missed, and maybe it's because she so dislikes the world of geeks (as she is entitled to) is that breweries like Marble wouldn't be in the happy situation of moving into a brand new brewery and are still brewing all the hours god sent to keep up with the enormous demand for their products without the beer nerd network.

The shoe-gazing that she refers to, which she feels has been indulged by beer writers like myself, are often actually high publicity projects that pay dividends for breweries and the writer alike. Every time I go and brew somewhere I learn something new, which can only make me better at my job, and it's something I'm proud of - particularly when it produces something profitable for the brewery.

For example, the brew I did at Otley, thai-bO, was so commercially successful that it's been incorporated into the seasonal roster (sorry that sounds a bit boastful but it's true!), Pete Brown's book Hops & Glory and his epic IPA journey has helped put Worthington White Shield on more people's beer map in the last couple of years than any advertising campaign ever could and Stuart Howe's interaction with the geek network has seen him brew 52 beers in a year, some of which will now make it onto the Sharp's roster because they've been so well received.

I guess, in summation, what Nodder sees as navel gazing I see as interaction with interested consumers - what do you think?

Thursday, 2 December 2010

Miss You Kelly Ryan - Your Skype is Going to Be Busy!

Because I'm a disorganised numpty I didn't manage to post my simultaneous beer blogger tribute to the delightful Kelly Ryan (pictured left), formerly of Thornbridge, who is deserting us and heading back to his home shores of New Zealand with his lovely lady Cat.

So, as I'm nursing a fuzzy head from that last half of Alliance I thought it wise to drink at the Euston Tap at his London leaving bash last night, I thought I'd better get on it!

Kelly has not only been responsible for, or involved in, some of the most glorious beers to hit UK bars in the past few years, he has also been a rock for me personally and I hope one of the many huge hugs I gave him last night helped convey how much I appreciate that and will miss him.

Whether it was bouncing ideas around about my insane ideas for bonkers stuff like thai-bO or how to get rose flavours into a beer (a scheme not yet realised but it's coming!) he's always encouraged me and never laughed at any question I've asked.

No matter how stoopid I've been Kelly has always been unfailing helpful, cheerful, knowledgeable and fun (whilst managing to be pretty darn decorative as well!) and I hope it won't be too long before I share a beer with him and Cat in hobbit land.

In all seriousness though, our loss is New Zealand's gain so please, Kiwi brewing scene, take care of Kelly and nurture him - he's a star now but I predict we're going to see him become a far brighter fixture in the brewing firmament in years to come.